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These twenty miles of the Penobscot, between Moosehead and Chesuncook lakes, are comparatively smooth, and a great part dead-water; but from time to time it is shallow and rapid, with rocks or gravel beds, where you can wade across. There is no expanse of water, and no break in the forest, and the meadow is a mere edging here and there. There are no hills near the river nor within sight, except one or two distant mountains seen in a few places. The banks are from six to ten feet height, but once or twice rise gently to higher ground. In many places the forest on the bank was but a thin strip, letting the light through from some alder swamp or meadow behind.
- Henry David Thoreau, The Maine Woods
Smoothwater paddling amongst the foliage.
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The West Branch of the Penobscot and adjacent lakes is a relaxing trip through a heavily traveled wildlife corridor. Moose abound in the area, and spend a lot of time along the river feeding. On one June trip I saw 9 moose, seemingly at every bend in the river. Having no significant rapids, this is a good trip for those who enjoy the quieter side of canoeing, or for those who are looking for a good introduction to canoe camping.
The trip has several possible starting places, but the usual one is at Lobster Stream, which Thoreau wrote was named after the countless crayfish, or fresh water lobsters, that inhabit it. The short paddle up to Lobster Lake is worth the trip, as the views of this rugged country are spectacular. Downstream from Lobster Stream the river moves along gently, with several easy sections of Class I water.
Mt. Katahdin seen from Chesuncook Lake
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Chesuncook Village, the only roadless village in Maine, lies just down the shore from where the river empties into Chesuncook Lake. Interested parties can arrange in advance to spend the night at the Chesuncook Lake House, a country inn located on the shore of the lake.
From this point of the trip we have several options, although we'll have made our decision long before. We can head south and take out at Ripogenus Lake, head east and take out at Umbazooksus stream, or head north and take out at Black Pond. Regardless of which way we're headed, there is much to explore; the interior of Gero Island, the bird-rich marshes of Brandy Pond, Caucomgomoc Stream, Moose Pond, the length of Chesuncook, and much more.
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